Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Leaving on a jet plane....

Today, we leave Scotland and fly via London to Singapore. We had such a wonderful time here, and would recommend a visit to anyone asking. The people in both Scotland and northern England were very friendly - always wanting to make conversation. The food was good, especially considering most of what we ate came from pubs. I will say, not that we've been everywhere, but so far, the beer in Scotland was the best we've ever had!! Most of the keg beer came from casts, and was so creamy and delicious. My favorite was Tenants Embers and Keith's was Belhaven's Best. It's going to be difficult to go onward to Beer Lao, although we hear it's not bad.

I think the most lasting memory of the UK from this trip is the beautiful landscapes, and the region's history!! Just being able to stand in castles or old ruins and to think about what went on there hundreds of years ago - it's just amazing. I am also so thankful to have such great family - not only my husband, but a loving father and sister, who went on this amazing road trip with us. Everyone got along great, and we had such fun!! Thank you to them both!

We arrive in Singapore around 5 pm tomorrow after a dreadfully long 13 hour flight. Hopefully, if we're not too zonked from jet lag, we'll be able to find an Internet cafe and post a quick blog to let everyone know we arrived safely. Wish us luck! - Kate

Sunday, June 28, 2009

When in Scotland.....

Saturday, we hit the distilleries!! I'm not particularly a fan of Scotch, but it would be terrible to miss out on the experience. First, we drove about 45 minutes away from Aberdeen, travelling west, to Glenfiddich. If a distillery can be described as so, I would say it was almost "posh." We sat down and watched a 20 minute video on how the founder of Glenfiddich painstakingly built his distillery - discovering his "perfect stream," over 2 years of constructing the stone buildings through the miserable Scottish rainy weather, carving the perfect cast for his whiskey to set. Etc, etc. Tessa and I were pretending to cry by the end of it. Sorry - a little soppy.

We then went on a tour of the machines (stills) used to make the whiskey. We saw how malted barley added to water made yeast, and how allowing it to ferment lead basically to a beer. Later, running it through the distillery process lead to a 63.5% alcohol, and then letting it sit in wood casks for a minimum (at Glenfiddich) of 12 years makes whiskey. This, distilled in Scotland, makes it a Scotch whiskey. They let us sample this whiskeys at the end - I could hardly make it through one shot. UUhhhhh . Pretty amazing smells though - difficult to explain in words.

We then ventured off to Glenlivit, just down the road. By the way, "Glen," means valley. So "Glenfiddich" means "valley of the deers." All the distilleries are located in valleys, near their "perfect streams." The Glenlivit distillery was not nearly as impressive. They were in their "sleepy month," so they weren't making whiskey and allowing time for machine repairs and whatnot. But, we were still taken on a tour and offered a taste at the end. Again, couldn't finish mine.

Then, back to Aberdeen. We went to dad's favorite pub called the Dutch Mill Inn, located conveniently across the street from his apartment. I had actually talked myself into finally trying haggis, but of course when I'm ready to be brave, it's not on the menu. Dad's tasted the stuff, and he was less than impressed. It's apparently somewhat like boudin, but instead of having rice and meat inside, it has spicy oatmeal. So, it's oatmeal covered in like a sausage casing. Yuk. But, when in Scotland.....??? I think I'd rather have the whiskey..... Kate

Friday, June 26, 2009

Week in the UK


We flew into Aberdeen last Friday on June 19th and stayed the night at Dad's place. Aberdeen is quite a nice town but COLD for summer! All the buildings are granite, everything is clean and fairly old, and there are quite a few trees. The knock against Aberdeen is that the weather often is not good (which is true of all of Scotland, but, in particular, Aberdeen), but we have been lucky as the weather has been sunny everywhere we ventured to over the past week. Very unusual.

The next day, we headed to Edinburgh to pick up Tessa. On the way, we stopped by a quaint town just on the coast called Stonehaven. It was very quiet, and we sat, watching some fishermen about to start their day on the boats. Just south of Stonehaven is a castle called Dunnottar, and is situated atop steep cliffs overlooking the water. Just stunning - the water was so bright, and one can hear the waves crashing on the cliffs below. Moving onward to Edinburgh... we stayed there both Saturday and Sunday nights. Very nice city - again lots of old granite buildings. We went to Edinburgh Castle, the Edinburgh Botanical Gardens (very nice), and a tour of Mary King's Close. A lot of the current city was built on top of the old structures (as opposed to tearing down the buildings). This tour is underground and basically shows you what the city used to look like a couple of hundred years ago. We only spent a couple of nights in Edinburgh, but it is someplace you could easily spend three full days.

Perhaps my most lasting memory of Edinburgh was eating at an Indian restaurant down the road from our B&B. Everyone said they enjoyed spicy food, so I ordered lamb vindaloo (something I often order in NYC). About five minutes into eating our food, Doug's face is tomato red, and another minute later he had tears in his eyes that were beginning to run down his face. To his credit, he kept eating and finished what was on his plate. He's been made fun of ever since.

From Edinburgh, we drove about 4-5 hours to the Lake District in northern England. It was so green and quite mountainous. Many of our scenic photos were taken during this drive. En route to the Lake District, we saw Hadrian's Wall (wall across England that was built by the Romans). Not much to view, but it was neat to see, as I had read about Emperor Hadrian when I was reading up on our trip to Italy earlier this year. It took about three stops to figure out if we were indeed at the wall or not. You'd think it would be obvious, but throughout Scotland and England, the land is mapped in stone walls to entrain the sheep. So, we were unsure if this was just another wall or actually Hadrian's, but we soon realized that the wall began where all the tourists were parking cars and taking pictures.

The Lake District is one of the prettiest places I have been too. Again, we were fortunate to have good weather. From what I gather, the weather is very unpredictable and you need to come to the region with the expectation that it may rain the whole time. We stayed a couple of nights in a B&B in a town called Ambleside. Throughout the region, there are lots of little villages, cottages, B&B's, etc. - similar to Tuscany with the towns scattered all over. Both Kate and I compared the region to Tuscany, but actually preferred the scenery better here. The English do a lot of "hill walking" (as opposed to hiking), and the Lake District is the prime place to do it - lots of grassy mountains with stone walls, sheep, a few trees, streams, lakes, cottages, etc. Kate and I did a 7-mile hike from Ambleside to a nearby village (Troutbeck) and back that went up and over one of the mountains nearby. On the way, a couple of British Spitfire WWII planes flew by (kind of cool and made you wonder if that was what it was like during WWII). The views were amazing. Best of all, you can typically get a beer mid-way through your hike, should your hike take you through a village with a pub (we were good - we refrained!).

We spent two nights in the Lake District, and on the day out, we drove to Glenridding (also in the Lake District) and did a 5.5-mile hike along Lake Ullswater. This took us from Glenridding to How Town (made me think of the Bob Willis song "Cow Town", so I sang that song half the way). The hike was recommended by a friend back in Houston who's from the area, and also from two hikers from the day prior. It just gave the best and closest views of the lakes...the fact that there was not a cloud in the sky didn't hurt the scenery either! Once we reached How Town, we took a ferry back to Glenridding.



After lunch, we started our drive back into Scotland and up the west coast. The drive went through Glasgow, quite a dark industrial city, and so was fairly unspectacular. North of Glasgow, we did drive by several large lochs (Gaelic for lake) that were pretty. We ended in Oban, which is a town on the western coast. Oban was a little run down, and was not quite what we expected it to be, but we did see a pretty sunset - at 10 pm if you can imagine! Something that's been so different here is the huge amount of sunlight that they have in the summers. It doesn't get completely dark here until about midnight, and by about 3 am, the sun's up again!


The next day, we thought about taking a ferry out west to the Isle of Mull, but given that it would have cost around $150 to do so, we decided to just make our way back to Aberdeen (on the east coast). The drive back to Aberdeen took us to Fort William (nice town that sits on a big lock, south of Loch Ness), and from there we drove southeast through the Scottish Highlands. The area was arid, but very pretty. Not only in the highlands but throughout Scotland and England, the land has been logged so there's often just a bunch of mountains covered in grass and heather, as opposed to trees. Sheep are plentiful!! I could see staying at a lodge there for a few days if the fishing/hunting was good. Here, we visited the queen's estate in Balmoral. It's a huge castle that sits on 11,000 acres of land, all of which is well managed and still pristine. Visitors are allowed to stroll along her estate, through thick forests, along the River Dee, and view her gorgeous horses from a distance.

From Balmoral, we headed east to Aberdeen. About 30 miles from Aberdeen, we stopped at a town called Banchory and had a drink at a hotel at which Doug had previously stayed. The hotel is on its own grounds (more like a country club) and offers views of the River Dee. There were a couple of people fly fishing behind the hotel. It was fun watching them; they use two-handed spey rods - named after the Spey River in Scotland. I was highly tempted to inquire about guide rates. But one of the things that stinks about the fishing here is that people/lodges own the fishing rights for a particular stretch of river (e.g., about 300 feet of river), and you can only fish that stretch of the river. While it would be nice to catch salmon in Scotland and partake in the history, pagentry, etc., I do not want to spend $300-$400 to stand in one spot of the river all day casting to the same spots.

Now that we are back in Aberdeen, I think we are just going to take day trips from here. The area nearby offers a couple of castles, a beach along the east coast, and various whiskey distilleries, etc.

We'll be updating our blog soon! Missing everyone so much!! - Kate and Keith
Keith and I were married October 27th, 2007, and only 5 weeks later on December 5th, we moved to the Big Apple. We have been so fortunate to live in such a vibrant, exciting city!! Keith and I worked hard, but we enjoyed much of what the city and surrounding area had to offer. Taking full advantage of this opportunity, we ate at amazing restaurants, became groupies of The Fab Faux, a fantastic Beatles cover band, were there to experience my best friend's daughter being born (Livi, I love you!) in nearby New Jersey, and took interest in hiking and camping in the Adirondaks. But all good things have to come to an end, right?? We missed our friends and family too much!!!

Needless to say, we are moving back to the Lone Star state!! Back to friendly faces, warm weather, friends and family, and good Mexican food. But, of course, we had to take a little detour........